There has been a lot of media attention recently on a hot new beauty trend: microblading. From rave reviews and exclusive salons, to warnings from provincial health, it can be hard to know- is this technique safe? Is it effective?
This topic is so hot, I was asked to do a short segment about it on Global News with Sonia Sunger:
Although as a medical and cosmetic dermatologist I do not perform this technique, I will distill what I have read and learned about it for you here.
How is microblading different from cosmetic tattooing?
Cosmetic tattooing uses a tattoo needle and ink to deposit ink in the the mid to deeper dermis (the structural layer of skin), where it stays, more-or-less permanently. Colours can change, fade, or become blurred over time, but the pigment is permanent, requiring specialized procedures like laser treatment for removal.
Microblading uses a fine blade- a scalpel- to introduce pigment more superficially. This superficial placement is what makes it semi-permanent, lasting anywhere from 1-5 years. Many salons recommend a yearly touch-up, but keep in mind that it can take several years to fade, so it is important to decide if this is the right treatment for you.
There was a warning recently about the possibility of getting a blood-borne infection from this treatment- how can I avoid this?
It is important that your brow artist adheres to the same sterility techniques that a doctor would use for a minor surgical procedure. This means using sterile equipment that is both single-use and disposable, or that is sterilized under medical-grade sterilization between clients. Not just the blade, but also the pigments and the container they are mixed in must be sterile. The practitioner should wear gloves and use clean technique. Even with the use of sterile equipment, skin infections could arise after treatment. Signs of this could include spreading redness or increasing pain after the procedure.
Is it painful?
It could be, so your brow artist should have a plan for how to deal with this. If a topical anesthetic is suggested, be sure you are clear about how to apply, how soon before your appointment, or whether it will be applied in the salon.
How do I assess my brow artists’ credentials?
As with any aesthetic treatment, familiarize yourself with the training programs that are available in your area, and decide which ones seem the most credible. There is no nation-wide standard in accreditation of training programs or facilities, and there can be wide variations in the cost and time spent on training programs. Your brow artist or their staff should be able to tell you where the artist trained. A useful question to ask is what possible complications may arise, and how are these handled? A professional should know not just how to provide an excellent treatment, but how to handle any complications that could occur. Also, ask to see some before and after photos from your artist’s work.
How long should the treatment take?
From what I have read, this sounds like a meticulous procedure. Simply marking the shape of the brows can take up to one hour, and this is arguably the most important step, where you will decide upon the shape you want your brows to take, and your artist will determine symmetry and make sure movement looks natural. Most salons state that the initial appointment will be 2-3 hours.
How do I prepare for treatment?
Your brow artist can give you details on what they require. Some prefer that you do not have any active neurotoxin, such as Botox®, at the time of treatment, as they will wish to study the natural shape and position of your brows. Let your cosmetic dermatologist know if you are planning microblading of your brows so that you can time it correctly.
Who should avoid this treatment?
Most salons avoid treatment if you are pregnant or breastfeeding. If you are undergoing major medical treatments such as cancer treatment, most salons also do not recommend it. Furthermore, if you have ever had an allergy to hair dye, henna tattoo, or tattoo dye, beware: having allergy to one type of dye can predict reaction to another, as they may contain the same or similar ingredients. Some salons offer a “patch test”, which they often recommend doing 24-48 hours before the treatment. This does not make any sense! Patch testing is testing for contact allergy, which is a delayed phenomenon- meaning it can take up to 7 days or longer for a spot of eczema to develop under the patch. A negative patch test also does not rule out future allergy, as allergy can occur at any time, so if a client was previously tolerating a treatment or had a negative patch test, but develops redness and itching, they should see a dermatologist for assessment before proceeding with any further treatment.
If you have had experiences with microblading I would love to hear from you- please comment below!